🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.